House of the sweet and strong

For the very first time, iconic cognac brand Martell has opened the historic Château de Chanteloup to the public. Donna Richardson gets a taste of the signature experience

Located in the Borderies near Cognac, Château de Chanteloup is the 18th-century ancestral home of Maison Martell and the birthplace of cognac. Magnificent doesn’t do the house justice. This is a place where deer roam the grounds, and pre-French Revolution antiques hark back to the days this fine spirit was first crafted by visionary Englishman Jean Martell.

Martell was just 21 when he founded Maison Martell in 1715. Hailing from the Channel Islands, the young entrepreneur distilled and traded his own ‘eaux-de-vie’, and created a unique legacy in the process.

Following his death in 1753, his widow Rachel took the reins of the business, embodying the motto: ‘Only the best, without artifice’.

At the time, France was in the grip of a revolution that would oust Louis III from the throne. Many antiques from this era remain at Château de Chanteloup, and now, guests of Martell can discover the secrets of this intriguing family, enjoy a drop or two of the good stuff, and indulge in Michelin-starred cuisine along the way.

History abounds

In the 1930s, Château de Chanteloup was renovated by descendant Maurice Firino-Martell, who introduced influences from Normandy to make his wife Elisabeth feel at home. I was lucky enough to stay in Room 14, the master bedroom, which belonged to Maurice. The resplendent bed was dressed in crisp white linen and embossed with the Martell crest, facing out towards the vast windows and grounds beyond. A bust of Maurice looked on from the mantelpiece, while, in the bathroom a stunning marble bath rests on ornate, clawed feet. I could have endlessly soaked up this timeless ambience, but the evening awaited. As we descended the grand staircase, candles twinkled like fireflies inside tiny cognac bottles. Musician Flavien Compagnon (pictured below) – who has worked with Celine Dion – played as we were presented with cocktails meticulously crafted by Remy Savage, one of the UK’s most celebrated mixologists. Drinks in hand, we stepped outside to a beautiful sunset as deer grazed on the grounds beyond.

Signature Martell

Central to our stay was an exclusive dining experience with three-Michelin-star chef Alexandre Mazzia (pictured below right). Head chef at the Paris Olympics, Mazzia is renowned for his innovative culinary creations inspired by his childhood memories of the Congo.

Mazzia’s intimate kitchen-restaurant welcomes guests to the sound of soft reggae. We were handed a glass of champagne as we settled around a rustic farmhouse table to witness the chef and his team perform their culinary magic. Mazzia’s incredible menu was enhanced by exquisite cognac crafted by Cellar Master Christophe Valtaud from Martell’s extensive reserve of eaux-de-vie.

Mazzia is a former professional basketball player, and his journey from the court to the kitchen is fascinating. Deeply influenced by his upbringing in the Republic of Congo, he brings a sumptuous fusion of French sophistication and international cuisine to his cooking.

The tasting menu featured 20 dishes, including succulent glazed duck breast accompanied by a grilled watermelon flambéed with cognac and paired with XXO Grande Champagne. Martell Odyssée was savoured alongside fabulous seafood dishes. Dessert included a heavenly creation of creamy coffee ice cream infused with cardamom, paired with a luscious strawberry marmalade.

After dinner we gathered around the piano to hear more from Flavien Compagnon. As the final notes faded, we retreated to the grand salon for a nightcap. The salon, adorned with magnificent tapestries dating back to the French Revolution, felt remarkable both for its history and sheer grandeur.

Delicious golden treasure

The next day, I took a morning stroll through the magnificent grounds of the château, its pristine manicured gardens reminiscent of the Palace of Versailles, and prepared to explore the prestigious cellars of the Martell family. In no time at all, a golf buggy had whisked us off to an ancient ivy-clad building where some of the world’s finest cognac is meticulously stored.

We were guided down into the musky cellar by Martell’s brand education ambassador Alexandre Combescot de Marseguet to taste Martell’s latest masterpiece, the Reserve du Château, otherwise known as L’Or de Jean Martell. A true labour of love, this limited-edition cognac is crafted from over 1,400 eaux-de-vie sourced from the finest terroirs in the Cognac region, and aged in 300-year-old oak barrels at Château de Chanteloup. The aromas and flavours unfolded like a symphony of the sweet and strong: delicate iris, wild carnation, and honeysuckle entwined with the rich essence of cherry and blackcurrant, harmonised by earthy undertones of sandalwood and cedar. The signature bottle has been made in collaboration with the renowned Maison Baccarat, exemplifying the sophistication of the liquor’s heritage.

Martell Chanteloup XXO Cognac is also finished here at the château – its aromas of honey, vine peach and apricot, complemented by notes of fig, almonds and walnuts. A miniature bottle of this incredible spirit was waiting for us when we got back to our rooms. Presented in a stunning crystal decanter, it was a truly decadent reminder of our stay.

Over at the Martell Visitor Centre, a short drive away in the centre of Cognac, we enjoyed further guided tours further expanding on the history and craftsmanship of cognac’s oldest Maison.

Not to be missed in Cognac is the opportunity to enter the Master Blender’s cellar. Deep in the domain of Christophe Vaultaud you get to blend your own creation. And afterwards, of course, we had one more chance to savour the L’Or de Jean Martell. Sante!

All the right notes

Our Grand Martell experience also included a sensational four-course lunch at Notes, the restaurant at La Nauve, Hôtel & Jardin. Once again, hosted by Alexandre Combescot de Marseguet, exquisite amuse-bouches paired with cognac and champagne set the stage for delicate ravioli stuffed with a medley of wild mushrooms – cognac was poured over the dish to enhance the flavours. Next, a perfectly cooked lobster tail with coral dressing was accompanied by crunchy grilled almonds and a rich lobster sabayon sauce infused with verbena. The haute cuisine experience continued with a succulent chicken supreme, served with melting potatoes, all beautifully paired with an artisan distillate, creating a harmonious marriage of flavours.

As the meal drew to a close, dessert arrived – a stunning blancmange topped with caramelised pine nuts, paired with velvety vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of crème anglaise. Each course was a celebration of culinary artistry, perfectly complemented by exquisite spirits. It crowned a truly unforgettable experience courtesy of Maison Martell.

Further information

There are three ‘tiers’ of experience available on the Signature Martell par Alexandre Mazzia. Tier 1 is €500 pp and includes one night at Château de Chanteloup plus a 20-course tasting menu. Tier 2 is €800 pp and also contains a cellar tour and tasting. Tier 3 is €1,080 pp and includes a one night stay at La Nauve, Hôtel & Jardin and dinner at Notes. To book, please head to martell.com

 

About the author

Donna Richardson is a luxury lifestyle and travel journalist who specialises in travel, food, luxury goods and experiences.
She has appeared in ‘Wanderlust’ and ‘Women’s Fitness’. Follow Donna on Instagram @journo_donna, and check out her adventures abroad a Star Clipper cruise here

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