JUNO Omakase sits upstairs from Japanese-Mexican restaurant Los Mochis, just a short stroll from Notting Hill Gate tube station. Past the bold Mexican art and through a curtain, a completely different world is revealed in warm timber and perfect lighting.
With an intimate seating of just six around the counter, it’s one of the smallest restaurants in London. That intimacy brings us closer to the cooking techniques and, of course, the origins of the ingredients. Head Sushi Chef Han Heung joked that if anyone is still hungry after the meal, he will happily make more. I think he meant it.
Our dinner begins with an introduction to the fish box. We learn about each cut, from Canadian snow crab and Valencian otoro, to shima-aji (striped jack) from Ehime. Chef Han personally selects fish daily to create this 15-course menu.
We chat about needlefish in season in Japan as Chef Han effortlessly shaped the shari for our nigiri. A few fluid hand motions and the rice holds together perfectly, falling apart softly as I bite into it. Formed to balance rather than overwhelm, the precision-cut kurodai, also known as black sea bream, is finished with a witch-like dusting of powder.
Ten wooden bowls line the counter, filled with eye-popping ingredients. Among them, a purple shiso powder is selected for the bream. It has been dried and ground by Chef Han from fresh Japanese leaves. Although shiso can be grown in the UK, the climate doesn’t quite produce the right flavour.
Fusion of cultures
That same attention to detail carries through to how the nigiri is eaten, as Chef guides us through the edomae etiquette of flipping it so the fish hits the tongue first. We try both Tokyo-style and more elaborate Osaka-style nigiri, all subtly filtered through a Mexican lens.
A black-glazed plate holds faint pink hamachi, a pop of colour from hana hojiso flowers, a jalapeño slice, and terracotta-tinted powder. The latter is ground from chicatanas, flying ants from Mexico, which add subtle sour notes.
Our deliciously crafted 15-course omakase meal cost £230 per person, including sake pairing at £120 per person, or the Takumi pairing at £170 per person. In addition, there are two tiers of curated wine pairing designed to complement each course, ranging from £120 per person for the Classic pairing to £210 for the Signature pairing.
When you visit JUNO, you are not going out for dinner – you are expanding your horizons, learning about new ingredients and even a little geography along the way. It’s light without feeling forced. With the menu shaped by the day’s catch, no evening is the same, but each feels like a catch in its own right.
Further information
juno-omakase.com
About the author
Cara Yuzu is a lifestyle writer interested in wild, organic fine dining experiences. You can follow her on Instagram and TikTok: @plate.voyage
