If you’re looking for an authentic adventure that evokes the spirit of ancient voyages, consider a Star Clippers cruise along the west coast of Italy. Supreme comfort aside, it offers a unique opportunity to follow in the wake of great explorers – sailing around active volcanoes, visiting ancient sites, and glancing starboard towards the mesmerising Amalfi coast.
Inspired by the iconic trading ships of the 19th century, Star Clippers is the vision of Mikael Krafft who set out to recreate the experience of being onboard these spectacular vessels. Originally designed for speed, the clippers transported precious commodities like tea and gold across vast, turbulent oceans.
And thirty years since their maiden voyage, Star Clippers has become world-renowned for its authentic seafaring experiences across Europe and the Caribbean; among their fleet of three ships is Royal Clipper, one of the world’s largest and tallest sailing boats. Star Clippers takes guests to intimate ports untouched by larger cruise ships, all the while providing the unique atmosphere of a private yacht.
Before we set sail on our Italy and Sicily adventure, we took in the coastal city of Bari and then into the Italian countryside to Matera, one of the world’s oldest inhabited cities.
The whitewashed stone huts of Alberobello with their iconic conical roofs was the next stop, before heading on to Rome to connect with our first-class train carriage to Civitavecchia where Star Flyer awaited. From here we would cruise down to Sicily enjoying the magnificent Aeolian Islands on the way.
Five-star flyer
From the moment you step aboard Star Flyer, you are whisked into a world where luxury meets ye olde glamour. The ship is adorned with fabulous vintage dark wood, which perfectly complements the classic creams of the leather seats, the white sails, and the brightly polished brass. There are two swimming pools on the expansive teak decks, one at each end of the boat. My cabin was superb, compact, functional, and furnished with dark-stained furniture, photographs of old clipper ships, and a large, immaculately dressed, very comfortable bed with a porthole offering a view of ships in the bustling port. In the rooms, guests are greeted with a fruit platter, cake, and a bottle of sparkling wine to enjoy as they settle into their new surroundings and unpack before dinner.
Sail away
As our voyage from Rome began, the crew began to unfurl the magnificent sails to a soundtrack of Vangelis’s Conquest of Paradise. We fell silent as the sails billowed in the wind, before toasting the ship’s upcoming voyage.
A day later, we arrived in the Aeolian Islands – a group of volcanic islands between the Italian mainland and Sicily known for their geothermal activity. Up on deck, the fiery red sky formed a wonderful backdrop to the silhouette of Stromboli, the Aeolian’s largest and most active volcano.
As the sun rose, a pod of dolphins were putting on a acrobatic display, so I climbed out onto the net at the bow to get a closer look at these graceful creatures. As we continued down the coast, a mesmerising chain of volcanic islands appeared, forming a spectacular backdrop for a yoga class taught by Melanie Camp of Artful Yoga. A former PanAm stewardess, Melanie found yoga late in life after losing her husband, and runs art and yoga retreats on Star Clippers ships worldwide.
Islands of fire
The mystical Aeolian islands are one of the best places to experience active volcanoes. There are seven significant islands, all varying in landscape and population. As the name suggests Vulcano is essentially a volcano, and was our first port of call. One of the three largest islands, it was once believed to be the entrance to the underworld by Roman soldiers and last erupted in 1888 – its central crater has smouldered ever since. Ancient history is everywhere, and we took a small boat past ancient sites mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey to reach our sulphurous destination.
Vulcano is still semi-active and has three volcanic peaks, with Monte Aria its highest point at 500 metres. Dominating the northern part of the island is the star of the show – Gran Cratere (below right). For a small entrance fee, you can enjoy a hike up to the crater edge, which is not overly strenuous, but still requires good walking shoes, sunblock and plenty of water. On arrival, the summit is spectacular as you stare down into the prehistoric, sulphurous crater, its fumaroles spewing and grumbling from the bowels of the Earth. It’s totally mesmerising, yet, if you can tear your gaze away, the horizon offers equally stunning views of the Aeolian archipelago.
We also visited the largest island, Lipari. The main port is full of quaint streets, with charming alleyways winding their way past traditional cafes and restaurants. Artisan stores abound, with pottery, shells, and volcanic jewellery all waiting to be bought and wrapped up for another day. Be sure, if you’re so inclined, when on the Aeolian Islands to try Malvasia, the delicious, sweet wine that is a local speciality.
Volcanic vines
The next morning, we docked in Messina in Sicily, before visiting the ancient city of Taormina and tasting wine on the slopes of Mount Etna, one of the most active volcanoes in the world.
Arriving at Gambino, we enjoyed a glass of white wine overlooking the vineyard, where lava trails can be seen amongst the vines. The wines from volcanic soil are rich in flavour, as vines thrive in the fertile soil. As we sat down, Nico explained that the food was paired perfectly with each wine. The first with cheese and progressed to a rosé, and then two reds, perfect for the sausages and meat.
Back on deck we prepared to sail three hours north again for the main event, a cruise around Stromboli. With a population of less than a thousand people, the island of Stromboli is home to another of Europe’s most active volcanoes, with a major event as recently as 2019. Every day huge volcanic claps can be heard as lava spews into the sky, it’s sight truly to behold, especially at night from the deck of Star Flyer, glass of champagne in hand.
Coast of greatness
The next morning, we sailed alongside the ship capturing her in her full glory, sails billowing as the crew saluted us. Cruises such as this are much better for the environment, and Star Clippers vessels have eco-friendly systems, seeking to utilise wind power for 70% of the voyage.
Arriving at the beautiful Amalfi Coast, I raised my champagne glass on the deck and celebrated my amazing journey. It was on to Ravello, also known as the City of Music. This picture-perfect city sits 1,200 feet above the Tyrrhenian Sea with incredible views of and Sorrento beyond. This is where D.H. Lawrence wrote Lady Chatterley’s Lover and E. M. Forster wrote his first novel. Hollywood stars Humphrey Bogart and Greta Garbo have visited as have President Eisenhower and Winston Churchill. Just like me, they had come for La Dolce Vita – bright blue skies, delicious food and wine, and billowing sails above. Life’s purest pleasures indeed.
Further information
Donna enjoyed The Italian Escape Rail & Sail adventure, which includes a four-hour first-class train journey from Rome to Civitavecchia. A two-night stay in Puglia and a 7-nights on board ‘Star Flyer’. Book at starclippers.co.uk
About the author
Donna Richardson is a luxury lifestyle and travel journalist who specialises in travel, food, luxury goods and experiences.
She has appeared in ‘Wanderlust’ and ‘Women’s Fitness’. Follow Donna on Instagram @donnamlrichardson, and check out her report from London Fashion Week here.
