Hotel Urso: Madrid’s most elegant hideaway

Travel and lifestyle journalist Sarah Highfield checks into the historic boutique hotel that captures the spirit of the Spanish capital

Located between the fashionable neighbourhoods of Salesas, Chamberí and Chueca, Hotel Urso offers a sophisticated alternative to Madrid’s grand palace hotels and buzzy design-led newcomers. Housed within a beautifully restored neoclassical building that dates back to 1915, this five-star boutique hotel combines historic character and understated luxury with warm Madrileño hospitality.

Since opening in 2014, Hotel Urso has quietly established itself as one of the city’s most beloved luxury destinations due to its impeccable service and genuine connection to Madrid’s culture and heritage. Built within the former headquarters of Papelera Española (an old paper factory), the property carefully preserves its architectural legacy, thanks to the Antonio Obrador design studio, while delivering all the comforts of a modern hotel.

A BOUTIQUE HOTEL WITH AN OLD SOUL

Hotel Urso celebrates the elegance of early 20th century Madrid and features 78 rooms and suites arranged around a central courtyard with original stained-glass windows, decorative tiles, marble floors and wood-panelled walls. The atmosphere throughout the hotel is tranquil, lighting is soft, and fresh fragrant flowers are dotted around.

A WARM WELCOME IN THE HEART OF AUTHENTIC MADRID

Positioned between the boutiques of Salesas, the creative quarter of Malasaña, and the vibrant nightlife of Chueca, the hotel puts you at the centre of some of Madrid’s most interesting neighbourhoods, while being pleasantly set-back from the crowds around Gran Vía.

Many of the city’s major attractions are within walking distance, including the Prado Museum, Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, Reina Sofía Museum, Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol. The surrounding streets are lined with small cafés, artisan bakeries, art galleries, and lots of fantastic restaurants.

Stepping through the hotel’s grand entrance, you are greeted by a large fresh flower arrangement and a glimpse of the charming old wrought-iron and mahogany cage elevator. The reception area flows naturally into lounge spaces filled with pretty ornaments, creating a welcoming check-in experience. The staff come across as friendly, passionate about Madrid, and eager to share recommendations.

CLASSIC ELEGANCE MEETS MODERN COMFORT

The 78 rooms and suites are bright and spacious, featuring high ceilings, bespoke furnishings and photographs depicting old Madrid. Several rooms and suites also enjoy views across the former gardens of the nearby Palacio de Villagonzalo.

My Junior Suite had lots of ‘wow’ factor, it was huge with large floor-to-ceiling windows. It felt wonderfully serene with a four-poster king-size bed and lounge area. Decorated soft colours, the suite was positioned on a corner, so flooded with plenty of natural light and offered great views of the surrounding streets.

Thoughtful touches included a bottle of local olive oil to take home, a Nespresso machine, a minibar, beautifully soft bedding, and a turn-down service complete with bedtime chocolates. The marble bathroom was equally impressive; spacious with a big mirror and lots of in-house bath products.

A CELEBRATION OF SPANISH FLAVOURS

Dining at Hotel Urso centres around Casa Felisa, the hotel’s acclaimed restaurant, which combines traditional Spanish cooking with modern influences. The menu showcases seasonal ingredients and regional flavours, delivering dishes that feel both familiar and inventive. The kitchen team are really talented, cooking everything flawlessly, and balancing flavours and textures to perfection – the jamon croquettes, cod fritters, and filet steak were all excellent.

Breakfast is served in The Conservatory, a bright dining room with a pitched roof and hand-painted wallpaper, where you can enjoy an extensive buffet alongside freshly prepared hot dishes. The Conservatory also hosts weekend brunch events with live harp music, which are popular with both guests and locals alike.

The Lobby Bar deserves a special mention; in the afternoon, it serves traditional Spanish meriendas (afternoon tea), and throughout the evening, there are live piano performances, making it an ideal place to enjoy a cocktail before dinner. During the winter months, in partnership with the iconic Chocolatería San Ginés, you can enjoy a delicious cup of warm chocolate with churros.

A WELLNESS RETREAT IN THE CITY

Hidden beneath the hotel is Urso Spa, one of Madrid’s most highly regarded urban spas. Operated in partnership with renowned skincare brand Comfort Zone, the spa offers a peaceful antidote to a busy day of sightseeing. Facilities include a plunge pool, hammam, four treatment rooms (one of them is a double), and a gym, while the treatment menu ranges from restorative massages to advanced facial therapies.

DISCOVER MADRID LIKE A LOCAL

While Madrid’s larger luxury hotels often feel detached from their surroundings, Hotel Urso embraces its neighbourhood and encourages visitors to experience the capital beyond its most famous landmarks. Spend an afternoon browsing the boutiques and galleries in Salesas, explore the independent shops in Malasaña, or wander towards the Golden Triangle of Art for some of Europe’s finest museums.

Excellent nearby restaurants include Allégorie on Calle de Bretón de los Herreros for French fine-dining by Chef Romain Lascarides, where you will be charmed by his superb sauces and creative food pairings. Alternatively, Dani Brasserie on Calle de Alcalá offers international dishes with a glamorous backdrop on one of Madrid’s most beautifully picturesque rooftops.

About the author
Born in Hong Kong and based in London, Sarah Highfield is a travel and lifestyle writer. Follow her travels on Instagram: @SarahHighfield.

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