The first thing you notice about Chapel House isn’t the building. It isn’t the artwork or the location. It’s Sue.
Every memorable hotel has a personality. At Chapel House, that personality comes in the form of homemade jam, purple linen shirts, endless local recommendations and the sort of hospitality that has become surprisingly hard to find.
Set on historic Chapel Street, a short walk from Penzance harbour, Chapel House occupies one of the town’s most handsome buildings. The exterior gives little away. Step inside and you quickly realise this is not another boutique guesthouse following the same formula as everyone else.
The floors are painted chalk white and polished to a shine. Local artwork covers the walls. Purple, yellow and orange sofas sit comfortably beside open fires. Nothing feels staged. The house reflects the tastes and personality of its owner, who has spent years creating somewhere she would want to stay herself, in fact she did originally create it as her home.
Downstairs, the kitchen and dining room form the social heart of the house. Guests drift in and out throughout the day, often stopping for a chat with Sue, who somehow manages to know where to eat, drink, walk, swim and shop across almost every corner of Cornwall.
The six bedrooms and duplex suite are bright, generously sized and quietly stylish. Bathrooms are large, several with both bath and shower, and sustainability runs throughout. Organic bath products, bamboo loo paper, wooden beds and efficient underfloor heating are all part of everyday life here rather than points for a marketing brochure.
Sue’s team, Kate, James, Catie and Lucia, strike exactly the right balance. Friendly without hovering. Attentive without fuss. Fancy tea and cake by the fire? Consider it done. Want to use the sauna or hot tub? James will have everything ready with a little notice. If life has been moving too quickly, and doesn’t it always, book a treatment with Rachel and clear your diary afterwards. You’ll emerge feeling considerably lighter than when you went in.
An appetite for Penzance
Breakfast is substantial enough to derail any lunch plans. Fresh juices, fruit salad, yoghurt, granola, sourdough toast, avocado on toast and Sue’s homemade jams arrive alongside excellent bacon sandwiches, a vegan or full English breakfast. The temptation to have a little bit of everything is hard to resist.
Penzance itself deserves far more attention than it receives. Walk through Morrab Gardens before following the seafront to Newlyn. Watch fishing boats come and go. Browse independent shops. Take a dip in the Jubilee Pools, or spend an afternoon doing very little at all.
What separates Penzance from some of Cornwall’s better-known destinations is that it still feels like a real town. The locals are actually local. The winter months belong to the people who live here. Young entrepreneurs are opening restaurants, cafes and galleries that give the place fresh energy without stripping away its character.
Book a table at the newly opened Barbican Bistro, just down the hill from Chapel House, where owners Jack and Jay have quickly built a loyal following. The pig cheeks are excellent. So is the crispy aubergine with feta. Booking ahead is essential.
Getting here is easier than many people think. The sleeper train from Paddington remains one of Britain’s great rail journeys and children tend to love the novelty of it. The daytime train takes longer but offers wonderful views. Drive if you can; West Cornwall rewards curiosity and having a car allows for spontaneous detours to St Ives, Carbis Bay, Mousehole and countless beaches in between.
People are forever telling you how far away Penzance is. They are right. It sits at the very end of the line. That distance has protected it and this is part of its appeal. I loved it so much that I have already made appointments with estate agents. Sue would understand entirely.
Further information
Rooms from £205 per night including breakfast. Book at chapelhousepz.co.uk
About the author
Lulu Townsend has been immersed in the world of luxury hospitality for over two decades transforming her family’s boutique property in Umbria into a Condé Nast Traveller favourite and advising global names such as The Langham Hotel. Follow her on Instagram: @lulusluxurylifestyle
