Understated elegance

Hopping between sparkling new waterfront developments and historic candlelit courtyards, Finbarr Toesland brings us the best of Belgrade

Located at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, Belgrade may not be the first destination that springs to mind for a long, luxurious weekend away. Yet, thanks to an influx of high-end hotels, restaurants and cultural events, the view of Belgrade as simply a nightlife hotspot is quickly becoming outdated. From hidden, historic opulence to unexpected modern gems, it doesn’t take long for visitors to see how the Serbian capital is offering a fresh perspective on European luxury.

Waterfront living

Few urban renewal projects are as ambitious as the multi-billion dollar Belgrade Waterfront development. Home to modern skyscrapers, high-end boutiques, five-star hotels and thousands of luxury apartments, this in-progress complex has already become a hit. Standing as a landmark at the centre of the new development is the 42-floor skyscraper Kula Belgrade. Designed by renewed architecture firm Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, who are best known for designing the iconic Burj Khalifa, the Tower houses the exclusive Hotel St. Regis Belgrade, St. Regis branded apartments and a soon-to-be-opened 41st floor observation desk.

Perhaps the most exciting addition to the Waterfront is The Bristol Belgrade. After more than two years of thoughtful restoration, the hotel reopened in early 2025 and now stands as the preeminent luxury hotel in Belgrade. Meticulous attention to detail, understated opulence and a truly delightful team of hoteliers make The Bristol Belgrade a must visit for travellers to the city. First opened in 1912, the building was named as a cultural monument in 1987, recognising its value as a prime example of Secession architecture. Today, visitors arriving at The Bristol Belgrade are welcomed into a pristine lobby that immediately sets a high bar in terms of design.

Rivalling legacy hotels found in European capitals like London, Paris and Milan, a combination of contemporary elegance and classic beauty have ensured the reopening of The Bristol Belgrade hits all the right notes. Whether it’s Aesop cosmetics, exclusive lip balms, Dyson hairdryers or a complimentary minibar, the small touches make all the difference. International hotel visitors and locals alike can be found in The Courtyard, the hotel’s all-day lounge, enjoying a quick morning coffee or indulgent afternoon tea. The intimate Library space offers a tranquil sanctuary after a day of exploring the city and features a cosy fireplace, as well as a curated selection of literature from Serbian and international authors.

Traditional Serbian dishes and modern cuisine can be found at The Dining Room, where delicious food and top-level service greet diners at all times of the day. Both rooms and suites feel bright and welcoming, thanks to the cohesive interior design that focuses on soft beige tones aided by natural light. Just a few steps from The Bristol Belgrade in the historic Geozavod building sits the fine-dining restaurant Salon 1905. Here, diners can marvel at this grand architectural gem as they sample extensive tasting menus that are best served with Serbian wine pairings or non-alcoholic cocktails.

Led by head chef Ivan Tasić, who works to blend the best of Serbian and Mediterranean cuisine, guests can choose between three, five, or seven-courses, plus tasting dishes showcasing elevated Serbian gastronomy. With dishes like ‘Banat Landscape’, offering farm-raised quail from Banat with jam made from local green apples, beets, and celery root, to the ‘A walk through Fruška Gora’, serving up Danube pike-perch with wild mushrooms from Fruška Gora and a foam of cow’s milk cheese from Vojvodina farms, the entire menu pays tribute to the rich heritage found in Serbia.

The standout dish is absolutely the ‘Grandmother’s Pear Compote’ which features homemade pear compote wrapped in filo pastry rolls, with pear caramel, pear and beetroot crumble, sea buckthorn sorbet and lemon cream.

Steeped in history

For a place that has seen 115 battles fought on its grounds and been destroyed countless times, the Belgrade Fortress certainly looks good. The destructions and rebuilding of the citadel by empires including Byzantines, Ottomans, and Austrians have left many architectural and cultural marks. At the historic centre of the Kalemegdan Fortress, as it’s also known, is a sprawling complex of galleries, cafes and museums that offer something for those looking to explore the city’s history in more depth. Otherwise, Kalemegdan Park where the fortress sprawls out is simply a serene place to watch the world go by.

Found at the heart of Belgrade’s upscale Dorćol neighbourhood, the five-star Prezident Palace Belgrade hotel fully embraces the glamour and elegance of the baroque era. All of the 59 rooms and suites are replete with cashmere blankets, furniture with handcrafted details and gold plating, as well as sumptuous baroque features.

Inspired by the neoclassical château Petit Trianon found in the grounds of the Palace of Versailles, the hotel’s Maria Antoinette suite provides a delightfully rustic retreat. Here, you’re greeted by a spacious living area, walk-in-wardrobe, bathroom with a jacuzzi and open balcony. For guests without an in-room jacuzzi, the 1,000 square meter Royal Spa provides a wide range of both therapeutic and relaxation massages, alongside a Finnish sauna, a marble tepidarium, steam room and state-of-the-art fitness centre.

Walking into the expansive lobby, with the front office being made entirely from Brazilian granite, it quickly becomes clear that the hotel pays homage to the life of the royal couple Marie Antoinette and King Louis XVI. Impressive French-style artworks fill the walls, with luxurious furniture placed throughout the lobby bar and outdoor area.

It’s hard to beat the expansive views over Belgrade from the 9th floor Restaurant Marie Antoinette. Whether for breakfast or dinner, visitors can see as far as St. Mark’s Church and enjoy stunning views over the Danube river. In summer months, the 10th floor rooftop offers not only spectacular views but also a sizeable pool and bar, to indulge in cocktails and scenic sunsets.

With the majority of coffee houses, bars and restaurants allowing smoking, the city has its fair share of venues that pair a luxury bar experience with the classic vibe of a cigar room. The Gentleman’s Bar at the Prezident Palace is the only place to smoke at the hotel and comes with a fully-stocked premium cigar and whisky area.

Urban delights

Within a few minutes’ walk from Prezident Palace sit a handful of diverse cultural sights in the Dorćol neighbourhood. Declared a cultural monument in 1987, the House at 10 Cara Dušana Street is the city’s oldest surviving residential building and exemplifies the Baroque architecture found in the city. Once a workshop for a saddler, today, a small bakery can be found on the ground floor, with it being possible to stay overnight in an apartment in the house thanks to Airbnb.

Charming coffee houses such as Pržionica and D59B line the streets of this understated area, where minimalism is favoured over flashy design. For something unexpected, Kvaka 22 functions as both a contemporary art gallery and alternative cultural centre that has become well known for cutting-edge exhibitions.

The Bajrakli Mosque is not only one of the city’s most culturally significant religious landmarks, it is the only remaining mosque in the city. Built in 1575, the building features a single-dome with a tall minaret, exemplifying Ottoman religious architecture. Also be sure to visit the Church of Saint Sava for spectacular frescos and an angelic hush away from the bustling city beyond.

Housed in a perfectly restored townhouse in Dorćol, Iva New Balkan Cuisine puts forward a tasteful reimagining of Balkan culinary heritage. Through local ingredients and artistic presentation, alongside a young and forward-thinking team, creative dishes are plentiful at this fine-dining outpost. Expect perfectly plated dishes including creamy goat cheese, plum confit with lemon, fragrant Rtanj tea, and smoked mangulica lardo in crispy puff pastry, alongside the smoked Skadar carp in oil, fried capers, roasted cherry tomatoes, dried figs and basil.

There’s no question Belgrade remains a city of contrasts, with brand new luxury developments like the Waterfront being moments away from historic candlelit courtyards where local wine is served. Still largely off the global luxury radar, visitors who venture to this elegant destination will be richly rewarded with an authentic experience, and delight in a city where the old and the new exist in perfect harmony.

About the author

Finbarr Toesland is a freelance journalist who has been published in NBC News, ‘British Vogue’, ‘Prospect’, the BBC and ‘The Daily Beast’. Follow him at @FinbarrToesland