Uncover York’s Past on a Thrilling Family Break

By Donna Richardson

York is a captivating tapestry of history, where the past intertwines seamlessly with the present, offering a treasure trove for storytellers and history enthusiasts alike, as well as a great family day out. With its enchanting medieval heart and rich Roman heritage, this city invites exploration at every turn. Begin at the stunning York Minster, an architectural marvel that has stood since the 13th century, with its majestic spires reaching towards the sky. As you wander through the cobblestone streets, you’ll discover a vibrant array of shops and first-class restaurants, inviting you to indulge in culinary delights and local craftsmanship. For those seeking luxury, the city boasts exquisite five-star hotels that provide an oasis of comfort and elegance.

No visit to York would be complete without a stroll down The Shambles, a historic street that transports you back in time with its timber-framed buildings that lean invitingly over narrow walkways. Enhance your cultural experience with a visit to the Van Gogh Art Museum, where the masterpieces of this iconic artist come to life. You can also explore York’s chocolate history or delve into the Viking past at the Jorvik Viking Centre, where immersive exhibits allow you to connect with the area’s intriguing history.

In York, every corner tells a story, and every experience enriches your understanding of this remarkable walled city. Tucked into the northeast of England, where the River Ouse and River Foss meet, York captivates visitors with its stunning architecture, ancient heritage, and warm hospitality. You can explore narrow medieval streets where the old and new worlds blend together, exploring the city’s rich heritage.

A place where history comes to life

York’s history stretches back 2,000 years. The Romans established it as their stronghold around AD 71, naming it Eboracum. This strategic location became an important military and administrative centre. In AD 866, Viking invaders, led by the legendary figures Ivar the Boneless and King Halfdan, settled in York, transforming it into a thriving hub of trade and culture. The last Viking king of York, Harald Hardrada, ruled from 1040 to 1042 before the city came under the control of the English crown. The construction of the magnificent York Minster, an architectural masterpiece of Gothic design, took over 250 years, primarily throughout the 13th century. However, historical records indicate that a church has existed on this site since 627, marking it as a significant location for Christian worship. The cathedral has played a crucial role in the religious and political landscape of England. Notably, it was spared from destruction by Henry VII when it became the northern capital of his newly established Anglican church, allowing it to continue to serve as a symbol of faith and heritage for centuries to come.

Explore the city

Start your visit to York with an open-top bus ride for a great city view. We took the York Sightseeing Hop-On Hop-Off Bus and used our York CityPASSes immediately, a great option if you plan to visit at least five attractions. We began at Clifford’s Tower, the remains of York Castle, and our first stop was Walmgate Bar, which has a defensive structure. Then we passed by York Barbican, Bishopsgate shops, and York Racecourse. Our guide shared the history of York Racecourse, and we saw the Rowntree chocolate factory, hinting at our visit to the Chocolate Story later. We admired York Railway Station, opened in 1839, which had 13 platforms and was one of the largest stations of its time. You can hop off at the Memorial Gardens to explore the area and the York Railway Museum. After that, hop back on the bus to reach Exhibition Square for York Minster, the York Art Gallery, and the Theatre Royal. We passed Gilly Gate and Monk Bar, where you can visit the Henry VIII museum. Our final stop was The Stonebow, giving us access to the Shambles, one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval shopping streets. An open tour is a great introduction to the city.

Vikings of Jorvick

We arrived amid the annual Viking Festival, surrounded by people dressed in authentic Viking costumes, transporting us back in time. We made our way to The Jorvik Centre, a remarkable facility built over the Coppergate Dig site—an archaeological excavation revealing life in York 1,000 years ago. We stood atop a stunning glass floor which showcased a meticulously reconstructed dig site beneath our feet from 1976 to 1981, revealing discoveries such as a Viking toilet and a myriad of intriguing artefacts.

We then boarded an immersive rollercoaster that whisked us through the main hall, where animated puppets and lifelike visuals vividly brought Viking tales and legends to life.  Later, we wandered through the engaging gallery, marvelling at Viking skeletons displayed with care and awe. The Jorvik Centre is freely accessible to holders of the York CityPASS, making it an enriching stop for families. Young adventurers can get hands on with the York Dig, where they can unearth their own Viking treasures.

After purchasing Norse relics we stepped outside onto the streets where we were greeted by the sight of real Vikings clad in battle attire, ready to engage in thrilling demonstrations. The festival boasts a lively spectacle, featuring hundreds of Viking warriors marching triumphantly through the city, accompanied by captivating performances and enchanting storytelling that captivated audiences of all ages.

Then we visited an extraordinary Norse encampment where we indulged in traditional feasting, authentic 10th-century stalls brimming with handcrafted goods, and real Viking boats, their sails catching the wind evoking a sense of adventure. Throughout the festival, local pubs transformed into lively taverns, filled with laughter and cheer as battle thirsty Vikings converged outside St. Michael’s Mount for a spirited battle reenactment and revelry on Parliament Street.

The York Dungeon

A great way to explore York is by visiting the York Dungeon – which takes you back to dark chapters in history, from the Roman legions, the fierce Vikings, the story of Guy Fawkes as well as his companions and Dick Turpin’s highway robberies. After Turpin, we explored the Ghosts of York, including Thomas Percy, Guy Fawkes’ right-hand man, whose headless body is said to roam Micklegate, and the Grey Lady haunting the York Theatre Royal. The York Dungeon is notable for its ghost, Samuel, who died in a fire in the late 19th century, and his keys can often be heard jingling. The Lost Legion is also believed to haunt The Treasurer’s House, where a Roman road was uncovered. This site, along with York Minster, the Yorkshire Museum, Ye Old Starre Inn, and 35 Stonegate, is considered one of York’s most haunted places. Additionally, Halloween attractions are here to stay including a poltergeist house and a witch prison, which may be too frightening for young children.

Days out

Barley Hall is a hidden medieval townhouse built by the monks of Nostell Priory in 1360, which once served as the mayor’s residence. The latest exhibition, “Beasts of Barley Hall,” showcases the roles of animals in the medieval world, featuring pets like lions and bears, as well as mythical creatures like dragons.

Another historic site is Clifford’s Tower, a landmark since the Norman conquest. Over the years, it has served various purposes, including a royal mint and stronghold and from the tower is a spellbinding view of York’s skyline and medieval streets.

A trip to York wouldn’t be complete without visiting York Minster. This magnificent cathedral, located where Constantine the Great was crowned, boasts impressive stained glass windows and intricate carvings. Don’t miss the Chapter House and the chance to climb 275 steps to the tower for breathtaking views. The Great East Window is the largest of its kind in the world, and the Undercroft features a 1,000-year-old Viking horn. The cathedral is bathed its full glory during an evening light show.

Family friendly free activities

York is a fantastic destination for families, offering numerous free activities to enjoy. One of the best ways to explore the city with young kids is by joining the Vikings Spy Trail or the Magical Creatures Trail. You can pick up a map from the tourist office and uncover hidden details that tell York’s story as you wander through its streets. Along the way, you’ll discover 22 fascinating features while navigating the snickets and strolling down The Shambles in search of clues. This adventure provides a fun and free way to explore the city. You can also walk along York’s ancient city walls for free, which takes about two hours to complete—perfect for a sunny day. A free self-guided walk is available on the Friends of York Walls website. As you walk, you’ll get close-up views of notable sites like St. Mary’s Tower, Monks Bar with its portcullis, Red Tower, Walmgate Bar, and Micklegate Bar. While in York, be sure to visit the House of Trembling Madness, a medieval bar known for its rare Belgian beers and special dishes, including pea pie. This establishment was once part of a Norman house dating back to 1180 AD, making it the oldest of its kind in York. Inside, you’ll find a quirky collection of taxidermy and a tiny kitchen.

Shopping

Stepping onto the Shambles feels like entering the world of Harry Potter with its delightful, crooked buildings. This picturesque lane resembles the magical Diagon Alley, filled with quaint shops and charming cafes that beckon you to explore. It even features a potion shop where you can enjoy an enchanting brew and a store where you can get your very own wand—our Harry Potter-loving little girl was in her element. The Shop That Must Not Be Named offers a variety of merchandise, including wands worthy of Ollivander’s collection. Additionally, visit the Potions Cauldron at shop 9¾, where they mix magical drinks in a marvellous apothecary and guests enter a world filled with bubbling brews and enchanting potions. Our daughter’s face lit up as she held her bright blue glowing cocktail, and the magic truly came alive.

Eating and drinking

When it comes to dining and drinking in York, there’s a wide range of options, from fine gourmet meals to hearty pub lunches. We visited the Kings Inn in The Shambles, which feels like stepping back into the 1940s. Decorated with Union Jacks and British-themed menus, it also features a portrait of King Charles. York was once a royalist stronghold, and this pub clearly reflects that spirit. The trio of pies is delicious and pairs perfectly with a nice pint, allowing you to sink into the comfy armchairs and relax. For great value and a unique atmosphere, head to Pizza Express near Lendal Bridge, overlooking the River House. Located in a former Victorian gentlemen’s club, the restaurant beautifully highlights the original features of the stunning listed building. If you’re seeking an authentic Viking experience, Velhalla pub is a fantastic choice. It serves traditional mead and is a popular gathering spot for festival-goers, providing a memorable atmosphere. York also boasts The Stone Roses Bar, a dream for indie music fans. This quirky Britpop-themed pub is filled with memorabilia from The Stone Roses, Oasis, Blur, and other indie icons. It feels like a trip back to the glorious nineties, where you can enjoy an afternoon reminiscing about the good old days while sipping on cocktails inspired by the band’s Very Best album.

Where to stay?

You have many options for places to stay in York. If you want luxury, consider staying at The Grand, a five-star hotel in the city centre. Another good choice is the York Pavilion Hotel, a Great Western Hotel located in Fulford, about a 30-minute walk from the city. For a unique experience, visit the Golden Fleece, a cozy 16th-century pub in the city centre known as York’s most haunted pub. It has ghosts, including Lady Alice Peckett, the wife of the Mayor of York, and as many as fourteen other spirits. One ghost is thought to be a Canadian airman who fell from a window during World War II. You might also see One Eyed Jack, who wears a red coat and carries a pistol. A grumpy old man haunts the bottom bar, while visitors have spotted a young Victorian boy in the top bar. Some people even claim to have seen Roman soldiers in the cellar, where dead criminals once stayed. If you’re on a budget, the Travelodge is a good option. Its location on Piccadilly uses York stone, which helps it blend with the old city walls. Below the hotel, a Wetherspoons pub overlooks the River Foss.

York’s Chocolate Story

York’s history is deeply intertwined with chocolate. The Chocolate Story offers a chance to explore famous chocolate brands and learn the art of chocolate making. The guided tour winds through three floors on a journey from the origins of chocolate in Mexico, where it was invented 4,000 years ago, to the point when a Spanish explorer brought a chocolate recipe back to Spain. There, it was enhanced with sugar from the Caribbean, and its secrets eventually spread across Europe, reaching the UK by the 1650s. Quaker merchants introduced chocolate to Bristol and Birmingham, but it was in York that it truly flourished as the UK’s home of cocoa.

During those times, chocolate was more valuable than gold. Many iconic brands originated in this city, and we toured to learn how pioneers like Rowntree and Terry’s made significant advancements in chocolate production. From Terry’s Chocolate Orange to Rowntree’s Black Magic, the founding families created a unique confectionery industry in York that continues to thrive today. We also discovered that chocolate was worth more than a ring during the reign of King Bertie and Queen Elizabeth. One small tin, which he gave her as an engagement gift, is on display and was incredibly expensive. Afterward, we learned about the chocolate-making process before trying our hand at making our very own chocolate. It was an exhilarating experience, and we thoroughly enjoyed both learning about chocolate and tasting it.