Elevate your ski escape in Morzine
Donna Richardson discovers a charming alpine farmhouse where husky sledding, fine dining, yoga and massage takes mountain luxury to new heights
The air was filled with the howls of huskies as snowflakes landed on my face. Just like the eager dogs, I could taste adventure. The excitement mounted as we prepared to embark on a husky ride into one of the wildest areas of the Portes du Soleil. Despite three days of incredible skiing, this was the experience that stayed with me for days and weeks after my trip. We whipped along tree-lined paths, marvelled at a bird’s-eye view of the valley below, and discovered territory that most skiers never get close to.
With the hubbub of the ski resort far behind us, we walked 20 minutes uphill to the husky camp, which was an incredible sight – a large clearing in the forest featuring a small tent, with smoke curling from the top, and a pack of 16 Greenlandic huskies. In anticipation of the ride, the dogs’ howls were both eerie and energising. Each dog showed its personality as they were harnessed to the sledges, eight a piece.
No sooner had I settled in and pulled my sheepskin over me than Quentin, the skilful head musher, called out instructions, and we took off at a brisk speed. Soon, we zipped through the snow-covered pine forests, the dogs yipping excitedly as they followed the trails through the woods. The wind whipped through my hair as we sped through the beautiful valley, taking in the view. I felt like the snow queen in a fairytale.
Historic alpine luxury
We were guests at Hotel Coutettaz, a stylish boutique hotel nestled within a charming 18th-century farmhouse in Morzine – a ski resort in the French Alps, close to the Swiss border. This luxurious property is one of the oldest buildings in the town, dating back to 1771, long before Morzine became known as a ski resort. As the capital of the vast Portes du Soleil ski area, Morzine boasts an exciting food scene, lively après-ski activities, and high quality accommodation. The stone farm buildings, charming wooden chalets, and the old town, along with its weekly market, honour the town’s history, and Hotel Coutettaz stands out as one of the most authentic places to stay in the region.
With easy access to the slopes in Morzine and lifts connecting to the high peaks of Avoriaz at over 2,200m, it’s ideal for skiing at any point in the season. For adventurous skiers, there’s the option to ski across the border into Switzerland, making this one of the largest ski areas in the Alps. When you combine the 12 interconnected Swiss and French resorts covered by the Portes du Soleil ski pass, this epic region opens up 650km of slopes with plenty of intermediate skiing, making it the perfect destination for a weekend away with my sister.
Welcoming winter wonderland
James, the hotel manager, picked us up from Geneva Airport and told us about Hotel Coutettaz during our 90 minute drive to Morzine. Crossing into France and heading into the Alps felt like entering a winter wonderland. It was nightfall when we pulled into the hotel, and first glimpsed the striking manor house with its stone walls and white wooden shutters, illuminated by lights and surrounded by a snow-covered garden. Tucked away on a quiet road in the old quarter, the hotel is a chic hideaway with just 11 rooms, offering a much more intimate experience than a standard ski hotel.
Before stepping inside, I paused to admire the stunning views of the valley and the mountains lit by moonlight. James had mentioned the garden was a favourite spot for wedding ceremonies – judging by the breathtaking backdrop, it was easy to see why.
We headed into a warm and welcoming hallway, where I handed my coat to Duncan, the deputy manager, as James retrieved our room key from an old grandfather clock. There’s no formal check-in, so he invited us into a private bar with a roaring fire and offered drinks. After a long journey, I sank into a comfortable armchair and admired the original slate floor and ancient beams above me as I warmed my feet by the fire. Shortly after, we headed to the basement for a ski boot fitting, and were expertly kitted out ready to hit the slopes the next morning.
A storied past
Hotel Coutettaz, known locally as ‘Le Chateau’, has had just three owners since it was built in 1771 by Antoine Plagnat, a prominent figure in the region’s mining industry. He divided the house into two sections: one for his family and one for his cattle. After 25 years, he sold it to the Baud family, a well-known name in Morzine to this day. For the next 200 years, a family of lawyers, and at one time, the town Mayor, occupied the house. Now British-owned, Hotel Coutettaz has welcomed guests for nearly 30 years with its warm hospitality.
The owner, Dorrien, influenced by his upbringing in Tanzania, uses candlelight to illuminate the downstairs, but the property also showcases his English heritage. This creates a unique and inviting atmosphere. Dorrien came to own the property after admiring it for many years. He leased the property before the owners allowed him to buy it. However, as a listed building, the town council wanted it for a museum, so he had to fight a court battle before he took full ownership – and he has never looked back since.
One of the family
The hotel exudes authenticity, inviting you to become part of a warm family atmosphere. Each room radiates timeless charm, adorned with antiques and original features that tell a story.
Our room featured a large, sumptuous bed and a balcony where I paused to admire the stunning landscape. Surrounded by opulence, it feels like stepping into a secret party within an exquisite home. Every night, Dorrien graciously hosts dinner around a candlelit table, where his guests swap ski stories and forge new connections. The farmhouse also has a ‘chief mouser’ – a mischievous cat called Trouble!
For something special
Spread across the main house, converted barns, and a charming Savoyard mazot in the garden, the rooms at Hotel Coutettaz are both luxurious and wonderfully cosy. Among them are three signature rooms which offer that little bit extra. The Atelier is a former carpenter’s workshop transformed into a stunning garden bedroom. It features a private entrance, a bright bedroom with wooden beams, an antique roll-top bath, a marble washstand, and a walk-in shower. The room has windows on all sides and two doors to a south-facing balcony.
Meanwhile, the Cell was formerly a prison, and remnants of the bars are still visible. Guests now enjoy rich colours, cosy fabrics, and a spacious bathroom with a large bath, ideal for relaxing.
India is a luxurious room with sunset views of the Avoriaz mountains. A large tapestry hangs above the bed, inspired by the owner’s travels in India. The room has underfloor heating, a deep red bathroom with a walk-in shower, and a balcony overlooking the garden and mountains.
Last but not least, the Mazot is a small wooden chalet in the garden, originally used for storing grain. It’s a favourite for honeymooners seeking privacy, with a small balcony catching the evening sun. The en-suite shower room is stylishly designed, and a mezzanine can accommodate a single bed for a child.
Haute cuisine
Each day begins with a hearty breakfast. There is a choice of a full English breakfast or a generous continental buffet. After breakfast, the ski concierge transports guests to the mountains, for a day’s skiing. The Portes du Soleil is home to a wide range of excellent restaurants – some offering great value, others more indulgent. But for those who prefer to skip the lunchtime crowds and make the most of the quiet slopes, ski on through and treat yourself later to Hotel Coutettaz’s generous afternoon tea spread. Fresh bread, cakes, and homemade preserves are served by the fire from 3pm – it’s well worth the wait.
Each evening starts with drinks at the bar and canapés before the dinner party begins. It’s worth trying the local genepi spritzer – a traditional herbal liqueur specific to the region. We happened to arrive on Burns Night, an opportunity not to be missed by our host, Dorrien. His traditional haggis ceremony broke the ice for a warm evening of celebration.
We also enjoyed a Savoyard feast, delicacies from the Savoy region including snails in garlic butter – which I tried for the first time. I felt like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman as I grabbed the special pincers. I ate one and it was surprisingly tasty. Then came the raclette, selecting various cuts of meat, to accompany the melted cheese, and even cracking a quail’s egg. It was a fun evening, and like most at Hotel Coutettaz, it flowed seamlessly back to the cosy bar for more drinks and conversation.
Out on the slopes
Morzine offers varied skiing on both sides of the town: to the west, accessed via the 10-person Pleney gondola, are charming tree-lined runs and the broader slopes of Nyon and Les Gets. To the east, a separate gondola links to the expansive Portes du Soleil area, connecting Avoriaz, Châtel, and the Swiss resorts. In our ‘get your ski legs back’ lesson we ventured to the high slopes of Avoriaz, to warm up on inviting blue runs under the guidance of our instructor Hervé Gaillard from Reach Your Peak.
A confidence-boosting three hours soon had us tackling more technical tree-lined red runs, venturing as far as the Swiss border. We covered a lot of ground on that first day, making the most of the excellent snow coverage and glorious sunshine. Late in the afternoon, hearing tunes from across the piste, we were enticed into Folie Douce, France’s legendary après ski venue. After drinks and dancing, we saved enough energy to ski down the mountain. We reached the hotel just as a snowstorm took hold, blanketing the ground overnight. The blizzard continued on higher ground the next morning, so we postponed the skiing for a few hours and took a horse and cart ride around town. Morzine’s streets are lined with an incredible array of boutiques, boulangeries, upscale bars and bistros. There is also a traditional carousel and outdoor ice rink in the square for that quintessential alpine feel.
Being in the mountains isn’t just about hurling downhill on a pair of planks, and on day three we relished the opportunity to slow things down with a guided snowshoe trek with DaysAway Adventures. In the crisp evening air, we strapped on snowshoes and set off to catch sunset over Mont Blanc. As if this view wasn’t remarkable enough, as we descended, the night sky came alive, scattering the sky with stars. Our guides, Vivien and Jason, shared stories of the local wildlife as we sipped hot vin chaud beneath the moonlight – a magical reminder that there’s a whole other side to the mountains, far from the lifts and pistes.
Lasting memories
My sister and I had an incredible stay at Hotel Coutettaz. Our hosts made us truly feel like part of the family, and their local insight proved invaluable in helping us plan and make the most of our stay. When choosing a skiing holiday, Hotel Coutettaz is a place to escape everyday life, to combine the very highest standards of service with easy access to the slopes and beautiful mountain scenery – a luxurious alpine home-from-home.
UNIQUE EXPERIENCES
Believe it or not, there’s more to the Morzine than incredible skiing and drinking hot chocolate by the fire. Balance your trip out with these incredible activities.
Husky rides
Join Quentin and his beautiful huskies on a thrilling one-hour ride through Morzine’s lesser-known Vallée de la Manche. Uniquely, Quentin and his fellow musher guide the sled while skiing behind it – adding an exhilarating twist to this magical experience.
iletaitunefoisnoschiens.fr
Sunset snowshoe trek
Stargazing on a clear night in the mountains with DaysAway Adventures is something you will never forget. Vivien and Jason, your experienced, knowledgeable guides will provide you with snowshoes, a head torch and a warming drink to cap off the adventure.
daysawayadventures.com
Yoga
With clean mountain air and total tranquillity, yoga and meditation in the mountains is especially rewarding. Yoga Snow is run by local instructor Ursula, who teaches sound healing and qi-gong as well as hosting four yoga sessions a week in a serene studio nestled in Morzine’s historic old town.
yogasnow.com
In-room massage
Unwind with an in-room massage by Martha Perry, a specialist in mountain sports recovery. Total relaxation delivered to your door.
mpmassagetherapy.com
Further information
A stay at Hotel Coutettaz starts from €230 pp/pn 4-night. Week-long ski stays are catered – breakfast, afternoon tea and 4-course dinner – and include shuttles to and from the slopes: coutettaz.com
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Donna Richardson is a luxury lifestyle and travel journalist who specialises in travel, food, luxury goods and experiences. She has appeared in ‘Wanderlust’ and ‘Women’s Fitness’.
Follow her on Instagram @donnamlrichardson