Stepping back in time to the age of elegance in the Berkshire countryside for English Wine Week

On a beautiful summer day in England, nothing could be more delightful than sailing down the River Thames on a luxurious wooden boat while sipping sparkling English wine. 

I felt like I’d stepped back in time to a more elegant era as I celebrated English Wine Week with Roebuck Estates in their collaboration with historic boatbuilders Peter Freebody & Co, who boast a 300-year history in Hurley on Thames, close to Henley on Thames. Hurley-on-Thames is a historical village with an Abbey, which epitomises England, nestled between Henley-on-Thames and Marlow and is situated along the Thames Path.

Along the river are famous restaurants such as The Waterside Inn, originally founded Michel and Albert Roux and now run by Michel’s son Alain and other important restaurants tracing the river’s course from Reading down to Windsor, you can take an incredible river cruise down on one of the Freebody and Co boats.

We were welcomed with a sparkling wine reception, mingling among stunning boats until our hosts, Michael Kennedy, chief executive of Roebuck, and Richard Freebody, who runs Freebody & Co with his sisters, gave us a personal tour. Richard shared the story of his family’s legacy, which began as fishermen and ferrymen on the River Thames at Caversham, before the industry transitioned from commercial fishing to recreational boating as trains connected London to riverside towns.

Then, in the 1910s, car engines began to be adapted for use in boats, leading to the development of elegant motorboats that catered to those who enjoyed the finer things in life. And on this day, we were transported back to that time, to an era of fine craftsmanship where handcrafted and beautiful vessels were lovingly created out of wood for leisure time. 

Richard explained: “My great-grandmother Dorothy, who was quite a formidable character, had three sons, one of whom was my grandfather. When she decided to sell the Caversham site, she bought this site. My dad wanted to continue the family tradition, so he persuaded my great-grandmother to sell the land. At that time, fibreglass was gaining popularity. Everyone was telling him he was mad to stay with wood. Still, wood and boatbuilding were all he knew, so he very determinedly stuck to his guns and set himself up here, and my mum and dad continued the tradition. It looks like my own three children are showing signs of carrying on too, continuing the 300-year-old tradition.”

In this haven in the English countryside, city dwellers flock to escape the pressures of city life. He explained: “Lots of customers are London-based and they will have the boat all ready for them as they jump out of the car and away they go with their picnics and wine hampers.” With this in mind, we headed to the workshop, entering a world of fine craftsmanship, characterful, authentic, and wonderful. I watched the talented craftsmen polish each element of the boats with meticulous care and love. As well as new boats made to a traditional standard, there were also restoration projects, and one of them caught my eye because it was the same name as my daughter. Upon closer inspection, I found it was previously owned by Robbie Coltrane, named The Tune Amelia, which further underscored the tradition and craftsmanship behind Freebody’s boats.

Each slipper launch is a unique creation, combining cutting-edge technology with the heritage of British boatbuilding. The Freebody Slipstream, with its sleek lines and quiet electric motor, promised a day of stylish boating, and our trip did not disappoint. We set sail, taking in the tranquil beauty of the Thames, the pea-coloured water trailing behind us as we spotted cormorants and grand homes along the riverbank. It was incredibly peaceful and mesmerising, soaking in the British countryside as we glided along. We trailed the other slipper launch called ‘Diamonds are Forever’, and it felt like we were in an early James Bond movie. It was a wonderful experience, and one could imagine people reaching into an old-fashioned picnic hamper to get a bottle of sparkling vintage Roebuck to enjoy with their family.

Danesfield House

After our delightful excursion, we continued to Danesfield House in Medmenham for another wine reception. Upon arrival, I marvelled at the striking clock tower and the elegantly whitewashed building nestled in the lush English landscape. The hotel has a rich history, built on an ancient site, and has served as a base for the RAF’s intelligence section, which I found out more about after spotting RAF insignia at the reception. Immediately, I felt a deeper appreciation for the stunning venue, coming from a RAF background myself and which I was intrigued to visit again.

As we walked through the house, we saw old photographs, and I vowed to return and inspect them more closely. We passed great rooms that intrigued me as we made our way out onto the terrace for a reception and a beautifully manicured lawn to taste the latest vintage from Roebuck – the Rare Expressions No 96. This limited vintage captures the essence of its 2014 season. It was the perfect accompaniment as we mingled ahead of our exquisite dinner, where we were about to taste a selection of Roebuck’s wines.

The room at Danesfield House was magnificent, and since it opened in 1991 as a country hotel, it has hosted many prestigious events, including the launch of Roebuck’s latest premium vintage wine. I was in good company with my dining companion – a sommelier from Coworth Park –  who enriched the experience as we tasted a selection of exquisite wines.

The four-course dinner paired beautifully with the wines and began with citrus-cured sea trout, accompanied by lemon dill and sourdough, and was paired with Roebuck Estates Classic Cuvee 2018. The second course was liver parfait, cherry, mache lettuce and wood sorrel paired with Roebuck Blanc De Noirs 2018. Next was a Texel Cross Lamb in a Hazelnut crumb, with Hispi cabbage, black garlic and apple puree, paired with the new Roebuck Rare Expressions No 96. Finally we enjoyed pineapple carpaccio, with coconut, pomegranate and coriander, paired with Roebuck Estates Rose de Noires 2019.

I learned from Michael Kennedy how Roebuck Estates, established in 2013, has made significant strides in the UK wine industry with a commitment to sustainability. Their vineyard stands in the stunning backdrop of West Sussex, surrounded by wildflower meadows where they employ organic practices. As testament to its success, London’s Mandarin Oriental is currently listing Roebuck Estate’s prestige cuvée on its ‘by the glass’ list at £39 for a glass of Rare Expressions No 19.

The estate offers a range of summer events with unparalleled views across the South Downs, with relaxed summer sipping, jazz in the vines, tours and tastings and wine flights as well as feasts in the vines paired with local chefs and pairings with Roebuck’s vintage sparkling wines. Roebuck has partnered with Hampton Court Festival as well, as the official sparkling wine of the RHS Hampton Court Palace Festival, which attracts over 135,000 visitors every year. Overall, this enchanting trip showcased not only the charm of boating heritage but also highlighted the excellent wines from Roebuck, and it was a wonderful partnership.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Donna Richardson is a luxury lifestyle and travel journalist who specialises in travel, food, luxury goods and experiences.